Here Are 13 Car Fixes You Can Easily Do Yourself
Taking your car to a garage for every minor issue adds up quickly. Labour costs alone can make small jobs disproportionately expensive. The good news is that many of the most common car maintenance tasks require only basic tools, no specialist knowledge, and less time than a garage appointment. Here are 13 fixes well within reach of any motivated car owner.
1. Changing a Flat Tyre
Every driver should know how to do this before they need to do it at the side of a road in the dark. The process: engage the handbrake and place wheel chocks if available; loosen the wheel nuts slightly before jacking up the car; raise the car on a firm, flat surface using the jack at the designated jacking points (shown in your owner’s manual); remove the flat, fit the spare, hand-tighten the nuts in a cross pattern, lower the car, then fully tighten. Check the spare’s pressure as soon as possible.
2. Replacing Windscreen Wiper Blades
Wiper blades typically clip onto the arm and release with a simple tab mechanism. Pull the arm away from the screen, press the release tab, slide the old blade out, and click the new one in. The whole job takes about two minutes per blade. Always replace both at the same time — if one has worn out, the other is close behind.
3. Changing a Car Battery
Modern car batteries last 3–5 years. When yours needs replacing: disconnect the negative terminal first, then the positive; remove the battery clamp or bracket; lift out the old battery (they’re heavy); fit the new battery; reconnect positive first, then negative. Note that some vehicles need a code entered to restore the radio and other systems after battery disconnection — check your manual before starting.
4. Replacing Headlight and Tail-Light Bulbs
Access varies by car — some bulbs are reachable from inside the engine bay, others require removing a panel inside the boot or wheel arch liner. Check your owner’s manual for the specific procedure and the correct bulb specification. Always handle halogen bulbs with a cloth or gloves — oil from your fingers degrades the glass and shortens bulb life.
5. Topping Up Fluids
Engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and windscreen washer fluid all have clearly labelled reservoirs accessible from the engine bay. Keep each topped to the maximum mark (or within the recommended range) using only the specified fluid type. Never mix different coolant types or use tap water in the coolant system — it can cause corrosion.
6. Replacing Engine Air Filter
The air filter housing is usually a plastic box connected to the air intake. Unclip or unscrew it, remove the old filter, note the orientation, and drop in the new one. The whole job takes five minutes. Replace every 15,000–20,000 miles, or sooner if you drive on dusty or rural roads frequently.
7. Replacing Cabin Air Filter
Separate from the engine air filter, the cabin filter cleans the air flowing through your heating and air conditioning system. It’s usually located behind the glovebox or under the dashboard. Replacement varies by car but rarely takes more than ten minutes, requires no tools, and makes an immediate difference to in-car air quality.
8. Replacing Spark Plugs
Worn spark plugs cause rough idling, poor fuel economy, and difficult starting. Replacement requires a spark plug socket, a ratchet, and a gap gauge. Disconnect the plug lead (or coil pack), unscrew the old plug, check the gap on the new plug matches the specification, apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the threads, and install finger-tight before using the socket. Replace in sets.
9. Fixing a Chipped Windscreen
A small chip that hasn’t cracked can be repaired with a DIY windscreen repair kit available from any motor factor. The resin fills the chip and prevents it spreading into a full crack. The repair won’t make the chip invisible, but it stabilises the damage. Act quickly — a chip can become a full crack in cold weather or after the car passes over a rough road.
10. Touching Up Paint Chips
Small stone chips and scratches that expose bare metal should be treated promptly to prevent rust. Clean the area, apply a matching touch-up paint (available from manufacturers and car accessory shops using your car’s paint code), allow to cure fully, and apply clear lacquer. The result won’t be invisible at close range, but it will stop the corrosion process.
11. Bleeding Brakes (Basic Gravity Bleed)
If your brake pedal feels spongy or the fluid is dark and old, a basic gravity bleed clears air bubbles and refreshes the fluid. This requires brake fluid, a bleed kit with a one-way valve, and patience. Work from the furthest wheel from the master cylinder to the nearest. Note: if the pedal remains spongy after bleeding, there may be a more serious issue requiring professional attention.
12. Cleaning Corroded Battery Terminals
White or blue powdery deposits on battery terminals increase electrical resistance and can cause starting problems. Disconnect the terminals, mix bicarbonate of soda with water, apply with an old toothbrush, rinse with water, dry thoroughly, and reconnect. Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to the terminals to slow future corrosion.
13. Replacing Brake Pads
Replacing brake pads is within the capability of a competent DIYer with basic tools and careful attention to the process. Jack up the car, remove the wheel, remove the calliper bolts, push back the calliper piston using a G-clamp or brake piston tool, fit the new pads, and reassemble. Always replace pads axle by axle — both wheels on an axle at the same time. Test brakes gently before driving normally, as new pads need bedding in.
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